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11 de juny del 2019

The Language of Wine


Language and wine are two subjects I can easily geek out over. It isn’t uncommon for me to lose track of time doing research on some obscure detail related to either one. I consider it a privilege to be able to talk or write about either one of these topics individually. But an opportunity to write or talk about both of them together... well, that’s just playtime!

So in the spirit of lighthearted play, let’s talk about wine descriptions. When you’ve read hundreds of them, it’s easy to start to gloss over them quickly either out of boredom (“I’ve read this a million times before”) or skepticism (“How accurate is this really?”). Next time you come across a wine tasting note, try to look at it with fresh eyes. What adjectives does the writer use to describe it?

Have you ever noticed that some of the words we commonly use to talk about a wine’s characteristics are similar to words we use to describe a person’s character qualities?   You know, words like energetic, bold and dramatic. Or timid, complex and understated.

Wine Folly published an article several years ago that matched red wines with personality types based on the Myers-Briggs Type Indicator (MBTI). I’ve listed these below for your amusement. Even if you’ve never heard of the MBTI, they’re still fun, aren’t they? Remember that we’re just playing here. This isn’t meant to be at all scientific or overly serious. Apparently, I’m a Syrah, in case you were curious!  

Barbera - serious, traditional [ISTJ]
Cabernet Franc - generous, utopian [INFP]
Cabernet Sauvignon - intense, imaginative [INTJ]
Carménère - imaginative, generous [ENFP]
Gamay - adventurous, intriguing [ISFP]
Grenache (Garnatxa) - harmonious, versatile [ESFJ]
Malbec - pragmatic, flexible [ESTP]
Merlot - social, tried-and-true [ENFJ]
Mourvèdre (Monastrell) - versatile, complex [ISTP]
Nebbiolo - decisive, forceful [ENTJ]
Petit Verdot - unassuming, approachable [ISFJ]
Pinot Noir - focused, restrained [INTP]
Sangiovese - frank, adaptable [ENTP]
Syrah - romantic, seductive [INFJ]
Tempranillo (Ull de Llebre) - unpretentious, logical [ESTJ]
Zinfandel - outgoing, exuberant [ESFP]

Intrigued by this idea of drawing comparisons between wine and people, sometimes I’ll ask friends in the wine industry this question: If you were a wine, which wine would you be... and why? Here are the answers I got from some of them.

MiguelCoronado, winemaker and technical director at Clos d’Agon, says that he would be a Cabernet Franc. Powerful, yet restrained. Elegant. Persistent. And having a refined complexity. I think Miguel has played this game before.

Ester Rocaginé, sommelier and former classmate at the URV in Tarragona, describes herself as an old vine garnatxa from the Priorat – the kind that yields small, but concentrated fruit. The kind that struggles to thrive under difficult climatic conditions, but not in any negative sense. The adversity this vine has seen not only brings out its best qualities, but also serves as a reminder of its identity and where it has come from.  

EduardSanromà, winemaker and owner of his family’s winery, Celler Sanromà, tells us that he would be either a Parellada or a Macabeu, but not like the kind you might find at the supermarket. This white wine would be made with skin contact. Wild. Pure. Easygoing. He didn’t mention bold and unafraid of taking risks, but I don’t think he’d mind if I add these to his self-assessment.

Imma Solé Llop, sommelier and co-owner of her family’s winery, Cellers Tarroné, takes this exercise to a whole new level with her comprehensive self-reflection. As a wine, she would be a Riesling, she explains, based on how it evolves in the bottle over time. A young Riesling is known for its freshness, bold aromas and high, yet balanced acidity. These are qualities that reflect her youth – fun, playful, transparent with a direct communication style – a style that to some may come across as a little sharp (like the acidity of the wine), but people who know her well understand that her frankness is part of who she is and balances out her other character qualities. As a Riesling ages in bottle, it becomes much more balanced, structured and complex while retaining a hint of sweetness that forms a part of its character – all qualities that Imma identifies with as she matures and continues to evolve as a person. If she were a wine grape, however, Imma would not be a Riesling. Instead, she tells us that she would be a white Garnatxa which, like her, as a native of its environment that thrives best in its territory of origin, is also incredibly adaptable and resistant to difficult conditions like drought. Like Imma who gets along with everyone, this grape is flexible and versatile in a variety of situations, from winemaking styles to food pairing options. The common thread between Imma’s wine and grape choices: both have strong, distinctive character qualities. Like Imma, they’re frank, authentic expressions of their truest nature and are incapable of being anything other than themselves.

Your turn. Which wine would you say best expresses your personality?



By Carla Gordillo @polyglotsomm

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